Talking to Strangers: A Whirlwind Day in Havana

May 28, 2010

 By: William Gowsell

A week in the sun relaxing in the beautiful March weather of Varadero, Cuba is an ideal vacation for anyone. In the midst of this tranquility, who in their right mind would get into a strangers car? This was an adventure my wife, two friends and I jumped at when offered a private tour of Havana.

To see Cuba, you have to talk to the Cubans. Greeted by friendly people at the airport even at 1:00 a.m., started our trip on a positive note. After our first couple of days at the resort, we got to know some of the hotel staff, and were welcomed with friendship and deals.

One of the first Cubans we got to know was a lifeguard named Alan. He approached us during an early morning siesta on the beach. Alan told us he could get us cigars and rum cheaper then the stores, and he could “hook us up” with a private tour of Havana that was under our control and cheaper then what the hotel offered.

We worked it out to be forty pesos each for the private tour. The hotel tour was sixty-nine pesos each, so it was a deal. But, we were putting our lives in the hands of a stranger in a poor country; was this really a good idea? It seemed like the recipe for a fantastic kidnapping story to come.

On the day of our trip we sat in the hotel lobby with Alan waiting for our driver. I was apprehensive until we saw the modern looking car pull up. Victor our driver was pleasant and friendly, which relieved any worry.

The trip started off with some unintentional hilarity by our friend. She introduced herself to Victor and Victor introduced himself. In Cuba the pronunciation of V’s sound like B’s; our friend thought he said his name was Bigtoe when he said Bictor.

Our return trip would be along the coastline from Havana, but our trip to Havana would be through the countryside and the back towns. This trip was designed for us to be exposed to the Cuban countryside.

The drive took us through the area of Matanzas over unpaved roads with crater size holes. We drove past farm fields being plowed by tractors, and one by a man who was plowing by hand. Victor explained that the tractor must to have been unfixable, so he resorted back to the old ways. This resorting to the old ways is a quick reminder of how Cuban farmers do not have money or means to replace their aged equipment.

We saw the rural side of Cuba, the military academy, sugar cane fields, banana plantations, and people, masses of people on the roadside hitchhiking. We did not stop because the car was full, but this was the main way of transportation for most in Cuba.

At first sight, Havana is beautiful. Pastel coloured buildings brighten up the streets. But, it does not take long to see they are still falling apart.

Victor brought us to Revolutionary Square, where Fidel Castro made his yearly speech praising the ideas of the revolution. As we walked through this massive pavement square we could see tourists taking pictures and a billboard with Che Guevara’s picture. One would have to imagine the thousands packed in listening to Fidel.

Our second stop was the Bocoy Rum Factory. We walked through and learned how 5000 bottles of rum are produced each day. The smell of rum, and the giant barrels were interesting, but a true lesson of Havana came after we left the factory. We had parked across the street in what appeared to be an illegal parking spot, and there dressed in his purple uniform was a cop. I have no idea what the cop and Victor were saying, but I am certain that Victor was about to be fined for illegally parking. There was a tense discussion between them with no ticket given. Though I didn’t see it, I’m certain Victor bribed the cop. Victor later explained to us that the police are poorly paid.

Cigars are a symbol of Havana. They are an income, and a way of life for many Cubans. Tourists often visit the cigar factory but Victor brought us to the Partagas Cigar Factory gift shop. In one corner we watched as the famous Leopoldina Guiterrez, one the most accomplished cigar rollers at Partagas worked away in the corner patiently rolling the tobacco leaves to perfection. For the four of us witnessing the delicacy that this woman used on one cigar explained how much work went into making a cigar. Besides, watching her was free; admission to the cigar factory would not have helped our budgets.

By lunch we stopped at the Capitol building in the downtown area and walked around. Victor’s advice before we left the car was, “There will be people who will offer cigars, and rum. Tell them all no. I can get them cheaper for you.” I was expecting he would tell us that we did not want to get busted by the cops.

Seeing multiple sights at our own walking leisure was a fantastic way to explore downtown Havana. We climbed the steps of the capitol building only to be accosted by an older man who wanted to give us money. Naturally none of us said yes and we politely declined anything he offered. We saw how his scheme worked. He would offer tourists money for free, but he expected them to repay his gift with more money. How successful he was in his earning prowess is unknown.

We strolled through the park past the capitol and witnessed a large crowd of men all within a heated debate. My wife and friends thought for sure that there was about to be a rumble. I had watched a travel show before we left that took place in Havana, and they showed a similar scene where the men would all come down to the park to discuss their favourite baseball teams. Apparently the discussion could get very heated and tempers did flare but it was usually a safe place to disagree. This being the time of the World Classic, I am guessing many of the men, and they were mostly men, were talking about Cuba’s chances of winning.

As we continued on through the streets of Havana we met friendly people everywhere. Many begged, pleaded and asked really nicely for money. As much as we wanted to give we figured that if we started to give out money publicly then we would be harassed nonstop.

We walked by schools that were wide open on busy streets. We brushed past multiple tourists as we walked through the Floridita Bar where Ernest Hemingway made famous for his invention of the daiquiri. We even started a line of tourists that toured through Ernest Hemingway’s hotel room in Old Havana at Hotel Ambus Mundos.

Seeing the room where a writer of such stature worked and lived was incredible. I am a Hemingway fan and to be in his room and see where he wrote was inspiring.

Our Hemingway guide opened up a window that showed the view of old Havana. For a second I saw a view that really hadn’t changed in fifty years. This guide was able to show us an icon of North America and told his story through her own knowledge.

The final stop was the market in Old Havana. Here my wife and I split up from our friends and we toured through this vast shopping extravaganza. From stall to stall we saw multiple items that all had a distinct Cuban feel to them. We purchased a canvas painting and some locally carved figures, and then we took off to meet up with Victor.

While we drove away from Havana and back to the comfort of our resort in Varadero, Victor opened up about his life in Cuba. He told us about the hassles of trying to purchase a DVD player; about friends and family who made the perilous journey to America by way of boat, he talked about his job playing tour guide and lifeguard at a hotel. He also liked to sing.

From first thing in the morning Victor belted out his favourites, including Daddy Yankee. This pure joy that emanated from him was infectious. All of us would eventually end up singing with him and dancing around in the car. Here was a guy who did not have much, and was happy.

As a tourist I was able to see a snapshot of Cuban life with the help of Cubans. All that it took was taking a chance, and getting into a complete strangers car. The rewards from this choice the conversations from this day are a once in a lifetime experience.