HALEKULANI – Perfection in Paradise

May 21, 2008

Like an elegant host of a large, family party, surrounded by relatives of inconsistent style and increasing volume, Hawaii’s Halekulani Hotel sits at the southern end of Waikiki Beach amidst other hotels. It is a part of the scene because of its presence yet apart from it because of its quality.

A significant element of the Halekulani’s quality is its position. Seen from nearly every room, the arc and sweep of the beach dominate the panorama, with Diamond Head an exclamation point at the end of the line. A new line, the horizon, then begins, leading the eye across the dazzling blue till the sleek catamarans and tanned guests on the hotel’s sand again become the focus. Aquamarine is the principal colour, both of the sea and the Halekulani’s pool with its tiled cattleya orchid a distinctive feature.

The hotel’s rooms also attest to its quality and are categorized by view: Garden Courtyard View, Partial Ocean View, Ocean View, Ocean Front and Diamond Head Ocean Front. All are beautifully decorated, spotlessly clean, easily accessible and serenely quiet. This sense of ease and restful contemplation is enhanced by the tropical gardens that give each morning an orchid glory and fill the evening air with frangipani fragrance. So attractive is the setting that many couples choose to exchange their wedding vows among the palms and ferns that shade the lawn and shift slightly in the sea breeze.

Attention to detail is a characteristic of all superior hotels. With the Halekulani, the sum of the small things adds impressively to the total experience. On the bed each evening, guests find small gifts left by staff when the rooms are cleaned; chocolates, shells, recipes, individually wrapped and neatly placed. Fruit and flowers are replenished daily, adding not only sustenance but also scent. By the pool, when the sun is sizzling, attendants walk quietly among tanned bodies, offering icy hand towels and frozen iceblocks. Cold refreshments warmly given, leaving the guest taken aback by the thoughtfulness.

Staff accessibility within the Halekulani is a key element in both its functioning and philosophy, and while other hotels train their employees, an attitude of genuine care is inherent in all service personnel. An incident during my first night demonstrated this aspect. Having arrived an hour earlier, abundantly jetlagged and caffeine-deficient, I went in search of some coffee.

The duty manager on the front desk, Frank Pulay, suggested the Lewers Lounge and gave general directions. Confidently I set off, but being the sort of person who can’t even find his own reflection in a mirror, I quickly calculated that I’d turned left instead of right, walked up not down then back rather than forward. A passing guest was less analytical. She said I looked lost. ‘Uncertain’ would have been kinder but at that moment, my desire for charity was far weaker than my dependence on coffee. As I was about to admit defeat, Frank suddenly appeared, led me to the lounge and found me a table. Three minutes later I was cheered not only by the beverage but also through the realisation that Frank had been watching from across the flare-lit courtyard and had discreetly acted to assist me; no fuss, just genuine, sensitive attention to the needs of a guest. It’s those brief yet significant moments which endure in the memory. Equally memorable were my conversations with Erika Kauffman, the hotel’s Director of Public Relations. Through her enthusiastic advocacy and expansive local knowledge, I learned much about the hotel’s history and Oahu’s attractions. Unstintingly generous with both her time and advice, Ms Kauffman epitomized the Halekulani’s spirit.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Halekulani are not simply occasions for indulging the sense of taste. They are relaxed and memorable experiences that appeal to all the senses. The sumptuous buffet breakfast served in the House Without a Key restaurant can be enjoyed inside or on the courtyard, looked over by small, chattering birds in the stately Kiawe tree which has overlooked the ocean for more than a century. Equally memorable and reasonably priced are the deliciously innovative lunch and dinner menus.

Across the grassed courtyard is another restaurant, Orchids. Fanned by the breath of whispering waves and surrounded by rainbow-bright tropical flowers, guests surrender to tasty temptations morning, noon and night. If you’re a member of Weight Watchers or ascetic by nature, then avoid Orchids on Sunday mornings. From 9.30 am till 2.30 pm, this elegant restaurant lays out its legendary brunch that caters for every taste and satisfies every appetite.

As mentioned, the Lewers Lounge is ideal for late-night coffee and desserts, sipping pre-dinner cocktails or simply sinking into a plush leather chair as a pianist gently infuses the space with a jazz standard.

La Mer is the Five Diamond centre-piece in the Halekulani’s culinary crown. Private and intimate, with windows perfectly placed to frame the still-life sunset on the canvas of the ocean, La Mer is truly French in both flair and flavours. Its reputation extends well beyond the hotel itself so seating reservations are essential. Any eating reservations will be dispelled the instant you begin.

Like many people on holiday, I tend to eat a little more than I should. Fortunately, the Halekulani has two fabulous facilities designed to increase well being after the increase that sometimes occurs from being well fed. The first is the SpaHalekulani. If it were possible to find an oasis within an oasis, then SpaHalekulani fulfils that possibility. Infused with the vanilla-like scent of the indigenous maile vine, the spa features therapy beds, steam showers, relaxation suites for singles and couples and a discreet boutique offering exquisite body products. With Polynesian music lulling any lingering tension, therapists provide massages, manicures, pedicures, facials and hair treatments. SpaHalekulani does more than pamper the body. It rejuvenates the mind and spirit as well.

The gymnasium does much the same, only a little more vigorously. Far from being the bike in a broom cupboard offered by other hotels, the Halekulani’s gym is professionally equipped for those wanting to lose those pounds on the bench that were gained at the buffet. Yoga, aqua aerobics, tai chi and other fitness programs are offered daily by trained instructors and if your enthusiasm exceeds your endurance, in-room massages are available.

Apart from the designer shops and boutiques, one other facility deserves mention. The Business Centre provides everything needed to stay in touch; computers, fax machines, printers and, if required, secretarial services. The room itself has complimentary coffee, fruit and snacks, television, comfortable chairs in a reading area and showers.

Of course the Halekulani, as compelling as it is, encourages guests to explore Oahu. An easy and competitively-priced means of doing so is to hire one of the many cars the hotel has garaged nearby. My car was delivered within five minutes of requesting it and 30 minutes later I stood on the Nu`uanu Pali Lookout, mesmerized by the tropical green close by and the pacific blue of Kaneohe Bay miles below.

My leisurely island tour took in various pineapple plantations, Makapu’u Point, Laniakea or Turtle Beach, Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve and the famed Pipeline.

By far the most contemplative experience during the drive was my visit to the beautiful Byodo-In Buddhist temple. Set against looming mountains and reposing in traditional Japanese gardens, the temple is located in one of the most tranquil locations in Oahu - the Valley of the Temples.

Mark Twain once said of Hawaii: ‘That peaceful land, that beautiful land, that far-off home of solitude and soft idleness, and repose, and dreams, where life is one long slumberous Sabbath, the climate one long summer day, and the good that die experience no change, for they but fall asleep in one heaven and wake up in another.’

The Halekulani has been heaven to many guests. Its structure complements its setting perfectly, its staff is enthusiastic without being effusive and its facilities ensure that any expectation will be exceeded.

About the Author: Mark McKirdy is a teacher-librarian living in Sydney, Australia. He is married with three children, travels frequently and enjoys writing about his experiences. His favourite destination is Italy, although he visits New York often to stay with his daughter Fenella who is dancing with a ballet company there.