Sledding on the Schauinsland
New Year’s was a simply wonderful time, steeped in memories, as there was a big reunion with my friend’s sister, her husband and children in Heidelberg. The children provided us with ample entertainment, including puppet shows and gymnastic feats, and when we had all slept as long as we possibly could the next day, we went downstairs following the aroma of divine coffee and Broetchen, crispy rolls. We then steeled ourselves against the cold to walk along Heidelberg’s famous Philosopher’s Walk with its lovely views of the city, the Neckar River, and even some extraordinarily dedicated New Year’s canoeing enthusiasts.
This simple path through the vineyards used to have a much more prosaic name (something involving lentils, if I am not mistaken), but during the late Romantic period the name was changed when Heidelberg University profs discovered just how inspiring it was to congregate there, drink in the view and debate).
We soon left one beautiful part of the country for another, as we had a mission to fulfill: we had promised a certain young man that we would go sledding, so we returned to the Black Forest region and decided to hit the Schauinsland, a majestic mountain with panoramic views at 1284 m plus a challenging sled run for the little ones. Snow hung heavily on the evergreens, the scenery was dramatic and beautiful, and everything was blindingly white except for the children’s colorful snowsuits and our own red cheeks.
I have never seen such a selection of sleds, from the stable big wooden one I used to tiny little plastic trays with just enough room for a child’s bottom, and I must confess that I’d forgotten just how much speed a sled can pick up even with a well-fed adult weighing it down. It was bumpy going there for a while, particularly as I had all but forgotten how to brake… It was exhilarating and cold and sunny all at the same time, my nose was running and my eyes were streaming, yet I savored the air as the most amazing thing I had inhaled for some time, coming as I do now from the industrial center that is Dortmund.
Liquor and Chocolate
Before the New Year rolls around and I have to swear off all my favorite things (again), I thought I could write a quick piece on a recent trip I took to Duesseldorf. Now for those of you who thought (as I did) that the only reason to go to Duesseldorf is to hit the airport on your way to someplace else, there are, in fact, many other worthwhile reasons to go!
First of all, the city is located on the banks of the Rhine River, so you may walk along the river on a wide avenue lined by cafes and restaurants – in the summertime, virtually the entire city moves outdoors. (Though even in the wintertime, at least during the Christmas market season, you must use your elbows to be able to progress a mere few inches at a time).
There is the Rheinturm, offering an interesting concept of time – namely the world’s largest decimal clock - as well as a lovely view of the city. The port area, or MedienHafen, has been modernized and features stunning and innovatively designed buildings by the likes of Frank O. Gehry, Steven Holl, and David Chipperfield.
Duesseldorf, birthplace of Claudia Schiffer, is a major European fashion capital and has its own equivalent of Fifth Avenue, called the Königsallee, affectionately shortened to “Kö,” which boasts all of the same high-end boutiques I could window shop in at home. (I have to say that despite the economic downturn, these stores appeared to be doing a brisk business). Duesseldorf also boasts a huge annual international shoe fair (sigh!) as well as a yearly event called the Tour d’Atelier during which you can look in on designers at work.
But besides all these, I would like to mention a chocolate lover’s paradise called Gut & Gerne near Duesseldorf’s city hall which looks like it might have been the setting for a film, with its mouth-watering glass display cases full of tempting pralines and its quaint wood furnishings adding to the ambience as well. Luckily my friend was actually doing some buying, while I merely gaped in astonishment at the 220 different kinds of flavored truffles available, including such things as candied rose leaves, ginger, or chili pepper. A visit there will make you gain twenty pounds in no time, if only because everything is presented so beautifully.
Once you have gorged on enough of these delightful sweets, you will be in the perfect state to roll down to „Et Kabüffke“ on Flinger Street. This lovingly decorated tiny bar packs a huge punch, as it run by the founders of a heavy, fruity, herbal liqueur called Killepitsch, which, twice-distilled and aged in small casks, also happens to be 84 proof.
